6 Things to Know From London Fashion Week Men’s

6 Things to Know From London Fashion Week Men’s

As the event adds days and changes its name (from London Collections: Men to London Fashion Week Men’s) we look back at 6 takeaways from the semi-annual event.

As the event adds days and changes its name (from London Collections: Men to London Fashion Week Men’s) we look back at 6 takeaways from the semi-annual event.

Text: Mikelle Street

The best way for a fairly new brand to make an outsized splash is with a big name collaboration. This season Virgil Abloh-affiliate Samuel Ross and his label A-Cold-Wall debuted a custom collaboration with the Nike Air Force 1 high. Featuring the ACW logo and no eyelets, the bespoke Air Force 1 High is said to be a runway exclusive, meaning no plans of being put into production.

Bobby Abley has practically made his name in nostalgia. His breakout season saw him turn Ursula and other characters from The Little Mermaid into sweatshirts and crop tops. This season, he’s tapped the Power Rangers, which is getting a blockbuster reboot later this year. In a straight-to-shops line (that means you can pick up some pieces from places like Selfidges now), the designer turned Ranger helmets into neoprene goods, and splashed phrases like “Morphing Time” and the Power Rangers lightning bolt on other pieces. The official collaboration is one of a few (Kith’s included) set to celebrate the upcoming film.

At the end of last year, Comme des Garcons teamed up with Vetements for a capsule collection that was in part emblazoned with the Leather Pride flag. This, months after Raf Simons himself explored leather culture via a collaboration with the Mapplethorpe Foundation. London Fashion Week Men’s provided further fodder for fashion’s fetish of the subculture. At Sibling, the duo of designers sent down a knit harness bedecked with spots—though, it wasn’t made of leather. At Bobby Abley, the brand’s teddy bear logo was turned into a leather harness. Elsewhere, though the garment isn’t exclusively related to the leather community, leather pants made a show.

If you’re a fan of the wide legged trouser, the season may have already started off as a bit of a win for you. Jonathan Lawrence Sullivan and Craig Green served those up in spades, mostly done in silhouettes featuring high cinched waists. But the pants were also present in other collections, namely Topman, Astrid Andersen and XimonLee. The latter designer, an upstart that graduated from Parsons gave the most expansive take in terms of fabrication rendering lavishly cut pants in everything from sturdy true blue denim to a brocade fabric, sheer layers and even a traditional suiting fabric.

Crochet seems an odd thing to get a strong showing at a men’s week. The method was given top billing at J. W. Anderson where the overall silhouette was kept oversized. Knits came as expansive scarves wrapped around shoulders, large sleeve add ons, color punching patches and even as what looked to be dickies. It was quite the range with brands like Joseph and Sibling also showing knits of some kind.

Dame Vivienne Westwood’s latest collection was a big one; it saw the combining of the designer’s men’s and women’s runway shows and a return to London. And while all of that is headline inducing in and of itself, the maelstrom mix which saw everything from crystallized penises as chain pendants to a guy in a one shouldered tulle dress and even tiny finger puppets as nail art file down the catwalk.

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