Calvin Klein Makes Waves For Pre-Spring

Calvin Klein Makes Waves For Pre-Spring

VMAN CAUGHT UP WITH ITALO ZUCCHELLI, THE MEN'S CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF CALVIN KLEIN, TO TALK ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THE BRAND'S PRE-SPRING COLLECTION

VMAN CAUGHT UP WITH ITALO ZUCCHELLI, THE MEN'S CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF CALVIN KLEIN, TO TALK ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THE BRAND'S PRE-SPRING COLLECTION

Text: Patrik Sandberg

Lets talk about this pre-collection.

ITALO ZUCCHELLI This time we divided the collection in two different deliveries and themes. In one delivery, we have “modern luxe classic.” There are some looks all made in denim, with webbing and detailing on the pockets and in the pants. And then we have more of what we call a "linear edge," so there are color-blocking pieces in a [Yves] Klein blue with a touch of green. Then there is the other theme called “abstract wave,” which has all these pieces with a wave graphic. We do very well with prints for pre-collection. We’re making the pre-collection, generally speaking, more fashion-y because our clients want to buy looks. They love to buy looks. So there are themes here that are going to be developed to be stronger, fashion-forward, runway-worthy.

This being the fourth pre-collection that you’ve done for men, what has the response been?

IZ Very good! We started very small like five years ago. We didn’t even do looks for the press. We didn’t do a look book; we were going straight into market. Pre-collections stay in stores longer, they arrive earlier. When people are tired of the previous season, and they see new stuff, they like it. That’s why we’ve been implementing more basics, but we’re also implementing more with the fashion content, too, and doing even better with that.

What is your approach when it comes to the materials, and balancing the more commercial with the conceptual?

IZ I use a lot of prints in pre-collections because they give you an interesting visual and graphic element. I try to keep the qualities of fabrics straightforward. Sometimes it’s a little tacky, sometimes it’s cotton. I just want the pre-collection to be the bread and butter, and then I get crazier on the runway.

What inspired the external pocket panels on the mesh jackets and shorts?

IZ I wanted to go a bit utilitarian; I always like that utilitarian feel. It’s very masculine, very understandable, very appealing, and functional. And there’s always an element of athleticism in my clothes, so that’s why I use mesh. It’s like a staple. I like to work mesh into almost every collection.

What influenced the color pallette?

IZ  I needed more neutral colors like bone, beige, and grey, with pops of color. Each “story” has either red or Klein blue with green. In the pre-collection, it is important to have some vibrant colors because it’s actually pre-spring, and when you get the “story,” you notice it immediately.

Everybody’s making such a big deal about pre-collections on the women’s side. Do you see men’s going in this direction in the future? 

IZ Not at all. I can see that they’re going to become more and more important in terms of sales, but I’m not sure it’s going to get to that point. It took a long time for Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton to do it in womenswear. Before, to do a women’s pre-collection show, it was a smaller affair. So it took years to get this big, It’s now almost as big as a main collection show because when you fly people, when you do it in a house designed by big architects, it’s a big deal. Maybe we’re going to get there for mens, but I’m not sure it’s going to, in the closest terms, go beyond that.

A straightforward approach is better. 

IZ Yeah. Also, there are too many fashion weeks. I’m not sure that the whole fashion community would welcome another men’s fashion week.

Do you want to drop any hints about what we can expect in Milan?

IZ No. [laughs]. I like to keep it a surprise, always. It relates a little bit to this pre-collection, but will definitely take it to another level—definitely more directional. I’m very proud of it. We’re going to do a big party, and I just finalized the performance, and that’s another big surprise. I’m very excited about that, too!

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

IMAGE COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

Credits: IMAGES COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN

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