Sartorial Sonnets: London Collections: Men

Sartorial Sonnets: London Collections: Men

STILL CRAVING MORE FROM THE F/W '15 MENSWEAR SHOWS? GREAT. IN A NEW SERIES, V'S WYATT ALLGEIER COMPOSES SONNETS EXPLORING FASHION'S LATEST LOOKS. IT'S AN OLD WORLD APPROACH TO DISCUSSING THE RUNWAYS' NEWEST HITS. FIRST UP IS TOPMAN DESIGN, ASTRID ANDERSEN, KTZ, AND AGI + SAM FROM THE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN. WAX POETIC WITH V, BELOW. 

STILL CRAVING MORE FROM THE F/W '15 MENSWEAR SHOWS? GREAT. IN A NEW SERIES, V'S WYATT ALLGEIER COMPOSES SONNETS EXPLORING FASHION'S LATEST LOOKS. IT'S AN OLD WORLD APPROACH TO DISCUSSING THE RUNWAYS' NEWEST HITS. FIRST UP IS TOPMAN DESIGN, ASTRID ANDERSEN, KTZ, AND AGI + SAM FROM THE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN. WAX POETIC WITH V, BELOW. 

Text: Wyatt Allgeier

TOPMAN DESIGN:

Shearling and denim, boys in cotton

turtlenecks and glam-rock accouterments

speak words of a past not easily forgotten:

A globe of jet set, mish-mash occident

and orient, mind-enhanced finery,

of when guitars melded with sitars

in the first wave of the male canary,

globalized and pretty, hems blown like car tires

and waists tighter than lyre strings.

The Topman man fears not femininity

nor the debauchery of billowed fur, silver rings.

Just a horror toward any banal obscurity

or the ghastly grey of metropolitan subjectivity.

The Topman man is free from everything

but the past that creeps and stings

and a sanitary future pawning emerald rings

ASTRID ANDERSEN:

A militancy in hoods and black berets

infused with a ruby lace. Shimmer Soviets

and Panthers, bespoke, loose and brutal fey

warriors pounding gender's walls with red-palettes,

violence, and passion in a cozy whole.

These muscled men play ball and aim their gun

toward restriction, injustice, and the dull

all in a noble, fine velvet, reach to the sun.

Let Andersen continue her atypical

revolt against digestible types, static,

with loose draping, mountainous shoulder,

like a vision machine, beauty automatic.

And the fact is, Astrid's armed lovers

pulse with the future, gender unique as clovers

decked in four leaves and glorious rays,

a legacy, a daring, suited aptly for today.

KTZ

With oranges moving like clockwork, bright youth,

the winter months for KTZ are as brutal

as they are historically severe, uncouth,

tight bowlers, communist leaders imagined cool.

It's an ultraviolence, a digital

glitch of beauty, black, and bones bare

coalesced for a product of critical

study, worn tough, bold, and graphically near.

The KTZ gang is to be avoided

by the weak and scared. Circumscribed citizen

beware the glorious youth, revolt anointed

in vitality and vigor of the radical denizen

bursting forth in reflective leather and

propaganda patterns to destroy man

as complicit animal, zipped up, fur hooded:

style, brotherhood, and fury be they guided.

AGI + SAM

A scribbled masterpiece on the puerile wall,

children's genius brought by Agi + Sam

in a primary palette this approaching Fall,

for a boy, never intimidated, never a lamb,

invested in joyous play, a truth said loud

in the face of cynical droll, in spite of grey.

The sweaters leap with color, the sound

of Legos clicking together, of a simple "Yay"

yelled for a new approach. Around the body

a cauliflower electic blue coat hangs full,

pockets large for experiments and candy,

for an energy so abundant: passion as rule.

Agi + Sam have abandoned sterile concept

for a nostalgic homage to time spent,

a pleasure for wearer, viewer, and all,

so get your pocketbook ready for Fall.

Credits: All images created exclusively for VMAN.COM by Brian Gilmartin

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