1017 ALYX 9SM’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection is marked by a collaboration with American based artist, Mark Flood, with the show taking place in a retrospective of the artist’s work in Milan. While certainly visually appealing, Flood’s work goes a bit deeper, as he is known for creating work that mocks American consumer culture as well as the (at times) absurdity of the contemporary art world. For 1017 ALYX 9SM, by Creative Director Matthew Williams, subversion seems to be a consistent inspiration — so this choice of collaborator feels pertinent. Some of Flood’s most iconic works have been recruited as graphics in this collection, while other graphics were made specifically for 1017 ALYX 9SM by Flood. 

Apart from the graphics done by Flood, the collection that Williams has provided is invigorating in its sense of texture. The worn-in looking leather is sure to be a hot commodity come fall, whether it’s the jackets or the boots, as they have a delectable “just right” amount of distressing. A neon yellow fuzzy jacket with the 1017 ALYX 9SM logo printed atop makes for a fun exchange of textures, suit jackets have been constructed with a tattered edge on the inside of the lapel, and perhaps the most exciting play with textures is the reappearing motif of studs that have been hand applied by Italian artisans. This stud detailing that occurs throughout the collection is most successful in its application on pants, almost like a deranged-ly sexy kneepad, fit for your friend that lives at a rave.

Strange-boy styling has recently come into the spotlight on the internet, pioneered by a young generation that is quite unafraid to experiment with the way they present themselves. This manifests itself in outfits that are so bizarre that they work, a way of styling yourself that is adventurous and ultimately rewarding when it works. The most strange-boy-esque looks in the show that are sure to raise the most eyebrows are the six that style activewear shorts overtop more structured pants; most notably where black gym shorts are worn atop a pair of skinny blue jeans. These looks are a reminder that strange-boy styling is certainly in trend, yet makes one question whether that sensibility is one that is able to be manufactured. 

Williams splits his time between 1017 ALYX 9SM, the brand he started himself in 2015, and as the Creative Director at Givenchy, where he serves at the creative over a legacy fashion house. It appears as though Williams is devoting his time at 1017 ALYX 9SM to playing with textures as a true lab of fashion experimentations. This range of opportunities in turn allows Williams to show off his range of abilities, which makes 1017 ALYX 9SM the ideal platform to show off edgy designs that have an undercurrent of raver-punk that vibrates throughout the collections.