As Acne Studios approaches its 30th anniversary, creative director Jonny Johansson uses the Fall Winter 2026 collection to reflect on time, legacy, and the evolution of menswear through denim. After three decades, Johansson positions the brand at the intersection of youth and heritage, where lived experience becomes a mark of credibility rather than nostalgia.

Denim anchors the collection both materially and conceptually. The straight leg 1996 silhouette returns as a cornerstone, subtly updated while remaining faithful to its original proportions. Washes suggest wear, repair, and age, reinforcing the idea of garments shaped by time. Trompe l’œil treatments mimic photocopied or collaged jeans, sometimes disrupted by visible tape or mending, blurring the line between illusion and reality. Leather enters the outfits through trims, pockets, jackets, and full looks.

The collection also examines how a younger generation absorbs and reinterprets traditional menswear codes. Fascination and aspiration converge in looks that mix tailoring with vintage-inspired elements. Silk foulards are knotted at the neck, roll neck knits sit beneath tailored jackets, and trousers are cut with precision. Tailoring is elegant yet softened, with more waisted double-breasted blazers, slender wool coats, and trousers that are cropped or gently flared in a nod to the 1970s.

Accessories ground the looks, from the Camero bag to vintage-inspired belts and recurring silk scarves. Worn Oxfords, loafers, and slim ankle boots complete a collection that captures a moment of clarity about what to preserve, refine, and evolve, keeping Acne Studios rooted in heritage while remaining unmistakably youthful.

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