Marking Celine’s creative director Hedi Slimane’s 20th Anniversary since his first inaugural show at Paris’s Palais De Tokyo in January 2002 was the latest unveiling of Celine’s Spring/Summer 2023 Homme Collection “Dysfunctional Bauhaus.” Previously, Slimane worked as creative director for Christian Dior from 2000- 2007 and Yves Saint Laurent from 2012-2016 before finding himself comfortably situated at Celine in 2018.

Since his much-anticipated departure from YSL in 2016, he has focused on generating his own distinct portrayal of masculine dressing, strikingly exhibited throughout this collection. That being said, in typical Slimane fashion, this collection was representative of present progressive masculine dressing displaying a beautiful interplay of androgyny meets rock star.

With its presentation at the effervescent home of contemporary art, the Palais de Tokyo, the location stands as a living sanctuary for today’s artists and a platform for emerging talents from around the world. In light of Slimane’s first showing at the Palais for Dior Homme in 2002, he wanted to inaugurate the location, which was still under construction at the time. After 20 years, Slimane’s fascination for the monumental architecture of the Palais only extended. Through this SS2023 Collection, he pays tribute to the institution and remembers this moment in his menswear reform.

The collection features strikingly sleek fits, extremely skinny ties, stovepipe leather trousers, and raw cut denim which was fitted alongside heavily decorated outerwear. In typical androgynous fashion, most looks were paired with pointed leather or combat boots.

Accompanying the collection was the original soundtrack, ‘Design,” performed and written by Gustaf, produced by Chris Coady, and commissioned by Hedi Slimane. Inspired by the rhythmic grooves of ESG, the dopey drawl of Jonathan Richman, and manic energy of The Fall, Gustaf’s live set was quick on its feet, constantly in flux, and obsessively catered to the people in the room. Which resulted in a sound that was emotive and infectiously danceable.