The contemporary house of Lanvin embraces the legacy and ideology of the Maison’s founder Jeanne Lanvin in this season’s Spring 2023 men and womenswear collection, designed by Bruno Sialelli. Translated anew, a sleight of hand evokes the emotions and remnants of Lanvin’s early days, intersecting a marriage of handwork with the organic humanity of nature. For all that is sensual, direct, and pure, Sialelli notes inspiration from Lanvin archives – interplaying the rigor of couture with the impulse of emotion, an attitude of today with gestures that honor the past.

Woven within each garment is an exchange between the raw and the refined – the ideal unfinished. White cotton shirts and delicate dresses exude spring archetypes – warmer days. Through intricate wool gazar tailoring, garments are immaculately worked for men and women, ending with a raw hem, combining precision with the spontaneous act. Cotton shirts, immaculately cut, are sliced at the waist and allowed to unravel. Details are lightened, while luxury is heightened.

Archives exude the expansive creative universe of the original Jeanne Lanvin. An eighteenth-century silhouette of Lanvin’s 1920s Robe de Style is sketched in plissé silk chiffon, delicate and weightless. And draped dresses in gossamer silk tulle echo Lanvin’s goddess gowns of the 1930s. Naïve and graphic patterns are drawn from gentlemen’s ties in the archive, printed onto radzimir for brief dresses and skirts.

A sense of the hand is palpable through the simplistic material and traditional techniques, elevating the savoir-faire of the Parisian couture house. Couture is seen here, in all its tenderness. Organza cloqué is applied in a protective layer over embroideries or wrapping the body in delicate silhouettes. Materials delve into the sensorial – finishes are gloss or Poudre, leather, eel-skin, bonded cotton, and silk tulle, all encourage touch and feel. Love, happiness, laughter.

Macramé is executed in fine silk soutache, embroidered, and used for long dresses and underpinnings. Gestures to lingerie are evoked through delicate ribbed jersey knits or the striped linings of tailoring transformed into stand-alone garments for men.

Watch the full show below: