Berluti Reconstructs Human Connection with Winter 2021 Collection

Berluti Reconstructs Human Connection with Winter 2021 Collection

Berluti Reconstructs Human Connection with Winter 2021 Collection

"Living Apart Together" is a contemporary celebration of color, texture and the capacity for connection.

"Living Apart Together" is a contemporary celebration of color, texture and the capacity for connection.

Text: Trishna Rikhy

When human connection is limited, pulled thin, and stretched to elasticity, the thread that binds us is reinvented, given a new look, a new purpose, so we can be Living Apart Together.

In an evocative art installation and performance piece staged digitally in Paris and Shanghai, Berluti’s Winter 2021 collection reminds us what it is to be connected whilst severed, tethered by the intrinsic emotion of humanity while physically in isolation. The figurative act of crossing borders is broached in a collection by artistic director Kris Van Assche, interpreted for a digital visual experience by video director Antoine Asseraf and creative consultant Woodkid.

 

 

A futuristic white space is the setting by which Berluti’s Living Apart Together collection juxtaposes contemporary fashion with the continuously evolving expression of the Parisian fashion house. With a buoyant, electric tempo, models are socially distant, connected by the freedom found within the collection, pushing the boundaries of restraint.

Inspired by the colors of painter Lev Khesin, the collection is embedded largely in warm pops of color grounded against a neutral base—vivid orange, fiery red, electric cyan converge against sandy beige and muted taupe, complemented by deep charcoal and gradient fabrics merging rich jewel tones against a single garment. The abstract, emotional patterns of the Russian artist is echoed in pristine tailoring and drapery by Berluti, sharp, elegant cuts juxtaposed with clean, contemporary silhouettes.

Embedded in the fluid void lingering between tactility and tangibility, garments of the Winter ‘21 collection are informed by adaptability and the touch of the human hand. A soft, relaxed silhouette is created by subtle restructuring and reinterpreted traditional dress codes, bringing formalwear to every day, fusing workwear with sportswear, often found in double-faced cashmere.

Standout pieces of the collection execute deconstruction and mixed styling, creating a multi-tailored look rooted in Berluti’s signature hand-coloration. Vibrant leather jackets are dyed and faded by hand; a hooded jacket and jumper reflect Khesin’s visual, geometric universe; a double-breasted suit is a celebration of color and inspiration, shadows of emerald green and magenta whispering to each other across the fabric.

Attention to detail is what makes the collection truly inspired, a work of artisanal excellence. A hand-stitched coat turns stitching into the pattern itself, while a white stitch embroidery traditional to shoemaking finds a new home embedded in the piping of quilted leather jackets, the trims of a leather suit, the cushioning of a padded puffer. 

Accessories of the collection echo the charming message of Living Apart Together, the little things which connect humanity Adorned with charms including Berluti’s signature shoe tree and multicolor pendants by Spanish artist Jorge Penadés, bags are soft and supple pieces for the everyday, whilst shoes are crafted from upcycled, triple-leather platform derby soles and morphed with a classic leather shoe. 

Shop the Berluti Winter 2021 collection here.

Credits: Images via Berluti

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