Chinese Design Duo PRONOUNCE at Pitti Uomo 96

Chinese Design Duo PRONOUNCE at Pitti Uomo 96

This week, PRONOUNCE became the first Chinese brand to host a runway show at menswear trade show Pitti Uomo in Florence.

This week, PRONOUNCE became the first Chinese brand to host a runway show at menswear trade show Pitti Uomo in Florence.

Text: Teddy Willson

Anyone who knows anything about high-end men’s fashion knows that Pitti Uomo is the menswear trade show. This year, the Florentine show celebrated China as its guest nation.

The country, which is something of a home base for fashion experimentation right now, yields fashion designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, who, together, make up PRONOUNCE. Li studied at MA Fashion of Central Saint Martins, London and went on to work at YEEZY, whereas Zhou studied at both the London College of Fashion and Istituto Marangoni in Milan while training at luxury fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna.

The duo became the first Chinese brand to host a catwalk at Pitti Uomo, paving the way for the nine other Chinese designers who presented at this year’s trade show as part of the Guest Nation China project. The project was curated by Labelhood, a self-proclaimed fashion incubation community, and organized by V/Collective, an international creative agency based in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Hong Kong.

Having already made an impression on Florence after receiving the Latest Fashion Buzz award at Pitti Uomo 91 in 2017, PRONOUNCE produced a show for an expectant and particular crowd.

Luckily, Pitti Uomo’s venue, the 14th century Fortezza da Basso, was the ideal match for PRONOUNCE’s SS 2020 collection, called “A FRESH DIG.” The label as a whole, but this line, in particular, aims to venerate China’s artisan heritage through its modern wardrobe.

The stone faces of ancient terra-cotta sculptures were scaled up and splashed on numerous pieces throughout the collection, adding on a cultural layer in a way that felt cool and widely approachable. Translucent and gleaming silk-like fabric was the staple of the show—each time, however, presented in a new form from wide-leg pants and impeccably tailored jackets to flowy shawls and printed robes.

Purple and red garments made a common appearance on the runway, tied together by khaki-colored fabrics. Hair and makeup were kept to a minimum, but the pair of designers played with large, flashy accessories to make up for it. As usual, PRONOUNCE pushed the gender-sharing fashion agenda and did so with ease.

The who’s who of menswear are not sleeping on this designer duo and neither should you. Watch the PRONOUNCE SS 2020 runway at Pitti Uomo 96 below.

PRONOUNCE takes the runway at Pitti Uomo 96.
Spotted on the Pitti Uomo runway.
Designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou of PRONOUNCE backstage at Pitti Uomo.
A look from the PRONOUNCE runway at Pitti Uomo 96.

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