Comme des Garçons Homme Plus SS20 Takes Notes from Woolf

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus SS20 Takes Notes from Woolf

Just in time for Pride, the Comme Des Garçons Plus SS20 show offers a glimpse into the world premiere of Orlando.

Just in time for Pride, the Comme Des Garçons Plus SS20 show offers a glimpse into the world premiere of Orlando.

Text: Lily Blazevic

Rei Kawakubo’s Spring 2020 collection represents the prologue to a feminist play. The Comme des Garçons founder has accepted the invitation to collaborate with the Austrian composer Olga Neuwith, the first woman to be commissioned by the Vienna State Opera in 150 years. Speaking to Virginia Woolf’s novel, Orlando, Kawakubo is destined to create costumes that capture an individual’s journey from one gender to another. As a result, Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus SS20 skips through the obstacles of gender identity, reflecting growth and individual expression.

The “menswear” collection is gender bending and fluid, incapable of being confined to a single department. Just like the liberating plot line of Orlando, the runway show is a walk of sexual freedom. The male models are dressed in Twenties-era bishop’s sleeves, bloomers, and corseted coats. Their hair is cropped and crimped in bobs and their outfits adorned with double strands of jewels hanging from their neck. Shirts are printed with colored gemstones and pearls, coupled with puffed sleeves, long skirts, and an abundance of ruffles.

The collection magically sustains a balance between theatrical and contemporarily fashionable. The clothing is costume-like at times, but fresh and fun at others. The collection is as much a complete repertoire of non-binary fashion design as it is a work in progress. The show represents the first step in the Orlando trajectory—leaving us on our toes for what’s to come.

Click through looks from Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus SS20 below.

UP NEXT

Behind the Scenes at Jil Sander SS20 Menswear