Designers At Work

Designers At Work

THE MOST MAJOR MOMENTS IN PARIS AND MILAN HAPPENED AFTER THE MODELS WALKED THE FINALES. FEAST YOUR EYES ON THE MASTERS OF FALL MENSWEAR.

THE MOST MAJOR MOMENTS IN PARIS AND MILAN HAPPENED AFTER THE MODELS WALKED THE FINALES. FEAST YOUR EYES ON THE MASTERS OF FALL MENSWEAR.

Photography: JD Ferguson

Text: Michael Gleeson

This season, designers joined forces in defining the progressive traveling man. Collections left behind nostalgic tributes and made way for a celebration of immaculate fabrics assembled in consideration of functionality, dynamism, and taste. Inspired by fantasies ranging from a space-viewed voyage through the Atacama Desert, at Vuitton, to a Kenyan safari, at Balmain, to an entourage of self-ruled biking cowboys, at Versace, to a cosmic quest for the origins of Earth, at Ermenegildo Zegna, the shows were suited and booted in an entirely new way. Alpaca was seamed with nylon to form reversible jackets, and layered with floor-sweeping vicuña coats that concealed alligator hiking boots. It's a season of undaunted mix, in which fur was paired with Polartec, at Emporio Armani, and cashmere suits were worn under tradesmen's work shirts, at Calvin Klein Collection.

Backstage, we had the joy of witnessing the maestros of design obsessing over every last detail to ensure their iconic elements were well-rendered, each look transforming models into different versions of luxe-shielded nomads, who hit the road, or at least the runway, in the name of innovative fashion.

GUCCI

"This collection is bold, bohemian, and sensual. The essence of the Gucci man." - Frida Giannini

EMPORIO ARMANI

"For this collection I imagined a metropolitan scenario in a range of mineral hues, which highlight the connection with the city, experimenting with refraction and illusions." - Giorgio Armani

CALVIN KLEIN

"Urban, luxe workwear with a hint of the '90s." -Italo Zucchelli

BOTTEGA VENETA

"The collection is about versatility and ease, continuing the exploration of how a look can take you both here and there. I am always thinking about what a man would need and what would work for him, whether in the city or the country- these are the questions we answer." - Tomas Maier

LOUIS VUITTON

"Our collections have always been about travel, but the idea this time was technical travel, digital travel, the implications of the fact that we can now see the world through a screen." - Kim Jones

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

"I am very intrigued by the new generation of masculine power through the way men dress and how they present themselves. I wanted to emphasize a new attitude through a studied nonchalance by using broken suiting and After-Six as an avenue to express this new contemporary elegance." - Stefano Pilati

BALMAIN

JOHN VARVATOS

"The Fall 2014 collection was inspired by Kiss and the idea of the superhero- the man in disguise with incredible powers. I wanted to add a dash of fantasy to the Fall line, while keeping tailored finesse and elegance." - John Varvatos

VERSACE

"I wanted this collection to be a celebration of individuality and the freedom to be whoever you want to be in the face of all the oppression in the world right now." - Donatella Versace

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

"The precise architecture of tailored construction, a defining trait of the Ferragamo lexicon, suggests the move from an urban dimension to create more intimacy. Through a process of morphing, the softness inspired by domesticity dilutes metropolitan rigor without eliminating it." - Massimiliano Giornetti

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