Walter Chiapponi is redefining what menswear should look like in 2022. The Creative Director of Tod’s unleashed his relaxed, casually elegant, and extremely wearable vision of the future at the brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 show in Milan.  

In celebration of the distinctive styles of modern-day Italy, the collection plays with the concepts of light and shadows, elements that might be found in the Italian countryside. Set in front of a backdrop of rolling hills and native grasses, the video for the collection, which is called ‘Shapes of Italy,’ sets the tone for the looks themselves. Notably absent in the presentation was a true runway, further highlighting the down-to-Earth feel of the collection. 

With clear inspiration from Italian architecture, the collection pays homage to several of Tod’s iconic styles, reimagining them in the brand’s newfound contemporary casual style. The neutral palette and infusion of textured fabrics showcase Chiapponi’s other major inspiration: nature. From the browns of the Earth to beige stones to the greens of the Mediterranean, the collection hints at every element of the countryside.  

A highlight of the collection is the reimagined T-jacket, made lightweight by quilted cotton and elevated with an embossed logo. Other key elements include an anorak and a parka with leather inlays, peacoats cut from blankets, boxy cotton shirts, and a leather biker jacket. Each element carefully showcases the brand’s signature quality and commitment to detail, without seeming overly stuffy.  

Though Tod’s 2022 Spring/Summer collection was also infused with Italian influences, it stayed surface level, with each piece still featuring sharp tailoring and more rigid shapes. This year’s collection builds upon its relaxed foundation, moving from last year’s clean lines and leather patches to a breezy and comfortable collection that truly encapsulates the ethos of an Italian summer. 

As one would expect from Tod’s, shoes and bags have a leading role in the collection. The iconic Gommino loafer was re-built as the Gommino Bubble, featuring a metal T Timeless buckle and oversized rubber studs, coming in vibrant colors. The 1T sneakers also got a studded upgrade, with micro studs and new fabric offerings. Tote bags with featherlight leather and the Tod’s Di Bag were made for Italian summer getaways, with the Di Bag now coming in an oversized male version.  

From sneakers to parkas, the Tod’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection fully expresses the sights, smells, and feelings of Italy in the summer. In a calculated yet natural move, Chiapponi brought the brand a much-needed refresh. By designing pieces that spoke to him and staying true to his chosen influences, Chiapponi is leading the charge to create truly wearable and desirable menswear.