Kean Etro guides us on a poetic journey in his Spring 2023 menswear collection as he presents his last solo collection for the brand. Stemming from his love for literature, Etro celebrates poetry as a utopia, composed of sentimental verses as a way of shaping chaos. 

“Poetry and utopia go hand in hand,” he notes. “In its etymology, poetry simply means making, composing. I wanted to give value to the idea of creating, which shouldn’t be separated from utopia.” Quoting Oscar Wilde, he added, “there’s no progress in society without utopia.” Keeping with the poetic theme of the show, Etro even had actors call hundreds of guests days prior to the show to recite poems to them.

The show opens outside, morning light illuminating the runway as models presented looks in a circadian rhythm; moving from whites through sun-at-the-zenith brights to velvety darks dotted with starry figments. Among the crowd showing his support was Marco De Vincenzo who will be taking over as creative director in September. 

Crushed satin suits, as well as billowing linens, offer a soft, sensual movement in the collection. The body is perceived through transparent T-shirts and chiffon kaftans to reveal nude skin. Elongated shirts and trousers carry soft volume paired with shoes with rope soles and sandals to emphasize the feeling of lightness. Some models even went barefoot, further expressing the need to reconnect with the earth and the importance of “il dolce far niente”, the “sweetness of doing nothing.” 

As a brand that started as a textile design house, paisley prints have become a signature of the brand. These floral motifs were present among Japanese-inspired garments such as caftans, kimonos, jackets, and blazers closed by an obi. 

Watch the show in full below.