A trailblazer for modern menswear, Sean McDonagh is forging his own frontier for fashion as creative director of fashion label Willem New York. Since the brand’s founding in 2017, the up-and-coming fashion designer has presented an array of unique collections, each of which brings new light to a significant moment in history. Putting a contemporary spin on past trends, McDonagh embeds a meaningful sentiment into each of his historically-inspired iterations.

For his most recent collection named Pavement Preacher, McDonagh takes cowboy-esque silhouettes from the Clint Eastwood film Pale Rider and revitalizes vintage garments in pursuit of modernizing the western aesthetic. As McDonagh offers an altered perspective with each new Willem range, VMAN spoke with the rising visionary to learn more about the growth of his brand and the intricacies behind his design process. Read through the creative director Sean McDonagh’s artistic psyche in the interview below.

How did you first discover your passion for fashion design?

I first stumbled into design through sneakers, which I think is now a natural progression to most people learning about all that goes into design. It was a limited edition shoe that I found out all of the design lines and materials that were chosen were there for a reason and had a story behind them. After learning that I started to question and look into the creative process in everything. I think the common progression is sneakers, then clothes, then art, and the rest I’m not sure yet because I’m in the art phase right now…

Where do you draw inspiration from when you’re designing?

I was a Harvard history major and although I never thought my major would help me after school it has become the starting point for each collection. It usually starts by a cultural figure from the past, in particular New York culture since that is where I grew up, and then I really do a deep dive into who they were influenced by and what they were doing at the time and apply that to our collection.

After launching Willem in 2017, how have you been able to explore new opportunities and grow your brand?

One of the most fun aspects of our business has been meeting new people and developing those relationships. We are constantly forming new relationships with fabric suppliers, or new buildout teams for windows or retail. We are finally at a point where we can really make whatever we can possibly think about making, which has an exciting yet challenging freedom to it.

You’ve been in the game for two years now. What have you learned in that time?

I’ve been learning an incredible amount, way too much to answer in one sitting. I would say the main thing I learned is that there are really no days off and you have to just keep going and keep working.

In three words, how would you describe your design aesthetic?

New American Menswear.

As the brand’s visionary, how do you instill your personal touch on Willem’s range of designs?

Everything has my DNA on it no matter how much I try to be objective. All designers in one way or another design for themselves. I definitely do. The brand has touches of New York, athletics, art history, and is all about the details.

Your latest collection is inspired by the outlaw artist Dash Snow. What first struck you about him and his work? 

When I started reading about some of my favorite contemporary artists right now Dash’s name always came up. Not even kidding, every single time. So immediately I wanted to learn a little more. I bought his books, some of his art, and found some rare interviews. He was everyone’s muse at the time. When he was racing around the New York streets, I was buying sneakers with my mom as a kid. So there was something interesting to be explored there.

Among all of the western-inspired pieces in your Pavement Preacher collection, which one is your favorite?

The Dan Overcoat is probably my favorite. We were sent a Cowboy’s rider jacket from 1835 and that became the basis for the jacket. The vintage piece was so old that the waxed cotton it was originally made out of felt like beef jerky. It is something you would see in a museum. We modernized that very jacket by slimming it out and shortening it. There is a special feeling when you throw that coat on.

Putting a modern spin on timeless silhouettes, the Pavement Preacher collection offers a fresh take on contemporary menswear. How do you focus on staying ahead of trends?

We don’t. It is more of an instinctual thing. We are never saying, “oh I think this is going to be a trend this season.” It’s more, “I love this painting or movie or poem. Who made that? What were they thinking? Who were they hanging out with?”

What does the future of Willem look like?

A lot of exciting projects. You just have to wait and see.