In his second collection for Givenchy, creative director Matthew M. Williams presents a more youthful approach for the house’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection, except with a hint of gothic romanticism. Williams, who is known for his love for leather, combat boots and a dark color palette, did not shy away from his well-recognized signatures. However, this collection also dips its toes into Givenchy’s archives, paying homage to Hubert de Givenchy, if you will, and brings back the graphic sweatshirts, layered fits and pearl details that have long been beloved by the brand. 

“I really wanted to create a synthesis of powerful, sophisticated femininity, with an interplay of multiple American and Parisian influences, sports and craftsmanship,” said Williams in a press statement. “Next to her stands a contemporary man with an instinct for chic nonchalance. On the runway, both are grounded by a sense of reality.”

While adding a mix of grunge and sensibility to this season’s Givenchy, FW22 turns the most ordinary day-to-day clothing archetypes into the extraordinary. Even the collection’s more formal items are feasible for everyday use, being equally ornamental and practical, and showcases Williams’ talent for creating a nexus of luxury and utility for mens- and womenswear. 

In what the house calls a hybrid of “formal and informal,” the collection uses sharp, tailored and feminine silhouettes that are “easeful and monumental.” Playful and voluminous layers, beads and textures add to these silhouettes, flowing with ease on the bottoms of slip dresses and knitted skirts in the same dramatical fashion as the outerwear. All of which were radical and classic in its tailoring, yet were intricate and experimental in their own way. 

For FW22, Givenchy played with graphics and 4D print embroidery to add contrast. We see familiarity in wide trousers, denim and oversized coats, but the house uses various fabrics, ruffles and other decorative details to add rigor. Taking these same cues, the color palette of the collection is just as practical, using different shades of gray, brown, green and black. However, we do see pops of color in some designs, ranging from a vibrant purple v-neck dress to red leather thigh-high boots. Other noteworthy pieces in the collection include an all sequin maxi dress with a pearl necklace attached to the color; a four-tiered mini dress trimmed with ruffles; and a disheveled t-shirt layered underneath a crop top. 

Elements of Hubert de Givenchy’s haute couture archive are seen throughout the collection, but are modified and given a modern take. Instead of pearls, some designs are replaced with studs, including faux stud piercing on the models, while hardware turns into jewelry. Matthews even combines these ornate details together, including denim that welcomes sequins and pearls, and hand-beaded garments with utilitarian statements. Another feature from Givenchy’s archives is the reworked ocelot print from 1955, which is over-dyed and applied to masculine outerwear. We also see black thistle embroideries, more pearls and even goose feathers, that draw on the same adornments Hubert de Givenchy used in his collections with the house. These details are transported to the jewelry and shoes as well. 

Leather accessories represent the collection at its core: sleek, structured and elevated. Givenchy’s notable pieces, such as their signature stretch boot, keep their simplicity while others see slight upgrades. This season, the TK 360 sneaker, with its completely knitted form, is given more graphic lines for a sportier appearance. The Kenny bag and 4G abgs, on the other hand, experiment with new proportions and finishes to elevate their overall look. FW22 also deputted new accessories with a softer, more yielding construction, including the New Hobo bag with the signature Lock, and that embrace the old with the new. 

View the rest of Givenchy’s FW22 collection below.