Ultra glamorized for the occasion, Givenchy exhibited their new contemporary archetypal Spring-Summer 2023 Collection at the military training complex of École Militaire in Paris, built during the reign of Louis XV. For the launch of his first standalone Ready-To-Wear men’s collection, Givenchy’s creative director, Matthew M. Williams, stages an intersection among present-day menswear and its relationship with the Maison artisanal atelier. 

Evoked through the collection is the amplification of artisanal and technological possibilities of Parisian craftsmanship, unveiled through the garments and accessories within the collection. Being as this collection was a generational approach to the codes of history, hence the location, there is an essence of deconstruction through a haute couture lens. Subculture allegories cross-pollinate in the free and fluid space of community dressing, inspired by the artistic men who orbit Williams in his personal life and his practice at Givenchy. Including notable influence from Alkaline, the Jamaican-born dancehall, and reggae artist, distinguished by his radical appearance and inky contact lenses. Williams investigates the societal uniforms within his native America through the refined elegance of the Maison. 

“Menswear was, quite naturally, the way I discovered fashion. In my practice at Givenchy, my men’s collections came from an intuitive starting point. This show is a reflection of myself and the men who surround me, from my close friends to the artists who inspired my work. It’s a dialogue with the time and culture that shape the way men dress today and tomorrow: the way new generations embrace and evolve the archetypes and dress codes of the past through their own progressive outlook. It’s a thrilling evolution and the reason I have chosen this moment to stage a standalone men’s show for Givenchy.” – Matthew M. Williams

Surfacing amongst extensive tailoring work are black and grey blazers and coats that have been fitted to be expanded but relaxed in volume. Worn in correspondence with these blazers are matching trousers, revealing a logo adorned lining in the intention of reshaping the DIY alterations of a uniformed schoolboy. A blouson and cargo short are featured in tan and beige leather and laminated for a rigid structure.

Classic shell jackets in mint green and black are constructed using highly lightweight leather. Summoning a military surplus sensibility, leather varsity jackets are adorned with the logo embroidered covering over its entirety and included a motif identical to the tarot card leg tattoo carried by C.D Matthew M. Williams.

Camouflage motifs are evoked in the blousons. Tactical vests and cargo pants were created from digitally printed waterproof fabric or through the 4G logo, Japanese denim Jacquard overlaid with fine laser-cut, and hand-destroyed muslin.

A camo pattern is achieved in workwear composed of layers of white and printed nylon, which are hand-stitched, manually sanded, and washed to achieve the effect. The white camouflage underpinning of the nylon pieces when overprinted with chalk becomes increasingly visible through extensive wear and tear.

The G-Cut, a new eyewear proposal, encases the lenses in angular G-shaped rims and temples. The 3D-Printed sunglasses feature shiny Black, matte grey, shiny transparent, gradient, and real natural wood. The G-lock is displayed in mini earrings and large pendants which have been wrapped in croc-embossed leather.

Featured with its curved sole and balled heel, shoes revolved around the TK Silhouette. A new take on Givenchy’s all knitted TK-360 Sneaker, the TK-360-MID is higher than its previous iteration and manifests itself in monochrome colors and a reverse edition with a cage pattern. A new rain boot founded in the same molding and craftsmanship is forged in vulcanized rubber with layered armor details and constructed with a cork sole covered in rubber. 

Watch the full show below: