Gosha Rubchinskiy's Collab with Burberry Sees the Classic Check in an Innovative Light

Gosha Rubchinskiy's Collab with Burberry Sees the Classic Check in an Innovative Light

Burberry like you've never seen it before.

Burberry like you've never seen it before.

Text: Sadie Bell

Russian streetwear designer Gosha Rubchinskiy lives and breathes the curated artistic vision and spontaneous juvenile attitude of youth culture. Drawing inspiration straight from skaters and fashion vagabonds on the street and the generational revolutionary force in Cold War and present day Russian politics, Rubchinskiy creates cutting edge collections that intersect scene culture with cunning design.

For Rubchinskiy's Spring/Summer 2018 collection, the designer, who frequently collaborates with hot brands entrenched in hip, '90s nostalgia like Fila and Adidas, teamed up with Burberry to develop a contemporary line as an ode to the inventive club kid culture of St. Petersburg before the dawn of the millennium. While the new line can be traced back to Rubchinskiy's experience studying the runway of rave-attendees exiting popular underground clubs like Griboyedov, it also sees Burberry's check in a modern, trendy light. Removed from its classic trenches and tasteful scarves, the iconic print has found a new fit on jumpers and loose sportswear shapes, highlighting its diverse history as a pattern.

Originating in 1856 when Thomas Burberry opened the first Burberry store specializing in the sale of outerwear, Burberry went on to transformed British fashion when he their legendary, water-proof gabardine fabric. Applied to trench coats and rain wear, the pieces became essential for military use in the early twentieth century, later becoming a fashion staple for its chicness and practicality. Later into the '60s, the brand's classic print became the forefront of their look after a Burberry store manager sought to spruce up a window display by showing off the coats' tartan linings - inspiring the brand to bring the inner print to the outside of umbrellas and scarves - transforming into the staple it is  today.

Though Burberry's trademark check began lining coats as early as the 1920s and forever altered their style in the mid-century, the print has become the signature of the brand, coming to embody a variety meanings from its wide consumer base in its cyclical lifetime. While ingrained in its look is an inevitable Britishness, in the late twentieth century it fell under the impression of American pop culture's label obsession with its shear recognition, later making its way into hip-hop culture as a luxe look for rap stars, and recent innovative collections from Christopher Bailey.

Because the Burberry check remained principal to its identity while celebrating and embracing a diversity in the styling of its consumer base, the collaboration with Rubchinskiy brings the pattern to its latest life and illustrates its elasticity. According to Dazed, the Russian designer stumbled upon spreads in British publications like The Face in the '90s featuring club fashions paired with the iconic print - ingraining in him an association of Burberry with the culture that he's made come alive in the new campaign. The collaboration is the club kids, Burberry, and an innovative, new light for the brand.

UP NEXT

Photo Diary: Gosha Rubchinskiy on Russian Rave and 90s Burberry