Melinda Gloss is a Parisian menswear brand that so happens to bear a woman's name. "Both of our names together would have been far too long," says designer Matheiu de Ménonville, whose cofounder is Rémi de Laquitaine. Friends since the age of 15, the two studied philosophy together before leaving university to start a fashion line, which they named after a mutual friend, Melinda. "She just had this way of putting lipstick on. And we wanted a name you could not only see but also feel." Tactility is important to the brand: while the lines are clean and the shapes pared down, it's the obsession with high-quality materials that has earned Melinda Gloss a legion of fans in the contemporary and luxury markets alike, from New York to Tokyo. The brand opens a new Paris flagship this September, and there's talk of a full shoe collection for later next year. But despite commercial growth, it all comes back to the relationship between two French friends, discussing philosophy and shaping their own aesthetic. "Each collection starts out as a series of mood boards," says De Ménonville. "Then there is a lot of informal conversing between myself and Rémi. "Who is the guy? What are the colors and volumes? Where is he going?" And [during] the four or five months we discuss a collection, everything can change radically."