Despite the presentation being held in New York, Campillo’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, In Medias Res, took its title from Latin. Meaning “in the midst of,” the phrase proved fitting for a collection intent on telling a story already in motion.

The collection drew inspiration from memory: from the idea that recounting a memory never guarantees an exact recollection, but rather an impression of what once was. This tension between preservation and transformation is central to Mexican designer Patricio Campillo’s creative process.

Continuing an ongoing exploration of charro culture, this collection once again found ways to maneuver, reinterpret, and personalize its codes, extending the dialogue between Mexican identity and contemporary fashion. Traditional tailoring was cropped, elongated, and layered, while established proportions were disrupted through a distinctly contemporary lens.

In partnership with Tequila Don Julio, models strolled across the tarmac of the Downtown Manhattan Heliport, creating a stark visual contrast between the greys and muted yellows of the concrete and the multicolored spectrum of the collection.

The silhouettes were distinct and deliberate, yet each carried an element of eccentricity. Cuts appeared to weave in and out of one another, while in certain looks, the movement of the walk was echoed in the soft tremble of horsehair.

Long a defining element of Campillo’s visual language, horsehair emerged as one of the collection’s most recognizable features, appearing across shirts, skirts, and jackets. Reinterpreted through new treatments and applications, it took on a myriad of colors, capturing the movement and energy of the presentation.

Where horsehair represented a certain familiarity with Campillo’s past, SS27 also marked a deeper exploration of jewelry and accessories. Coated in silver and onyx, the pieces stood in stark contrast to the airy, colorful movement of the clothing.

The clothing and accessories were not the sole recipients of attention. Footwear, produced in collaboration with Mariano Shoes, saw Campillo working with Portuguese leather while instilling a touch of Mexican sensibility. Select looks were also styled with Nike footwear, reflecting the longstanding relationship between Campillo and Nike.

As a meditation on memory, Campillo’s SS27 collection considers the fleeting nature of the past and the impossibility of recalling it with complete accuracy. Yet if memories are destined to shift and transform with time, this collection may prove to be an exception: In Medias Res is one that will remain in the minds of many for a long time to come.