Jill Sander Redefines Utilitarian Luxury With Fall/Winter '21 Menswear Collection

Jill Sander Redefines Utilitarian Luxury With Fall/Winter '21 Menswear Collection

Jill Sander Redefines Utilitarian Luxury With Fall/Winter '21 Menswear Collection

Released in a short film by Stephen Kidd, the collection emphasizes the soft masculinity of the modern gentleman.

Released in a short film by Stephen Kidd, the collection emphasizes the soft masculinity of the modern gentleman.

Text: Trishna Rikhy

Documented by Stephen Kidd at Paris Fashion Week, the Jill Sander Fall/Winter 2021 Men’s Collection is intimate, bold and sharp, a raw statement on emotion and strength.

 

 

Lucie and Luke Meier redefine utilitarian luxury with an array of uniforms for the contemporary gentleman: in a warm, dimly lit hallway, models display the suits, coats and knitwear of the collection to the beat of a smooth guitar, exaggerated proportions and layered silhouettes catching the light.

The collection is a play between hard and soft, a juxtaposition of the fine, lean garments and the boxy, oversized silhouettes, mirroring the dynamic between internal and external, the human need for privacy and touch. 

Rich hues play on the space between vulnerability and strength: off-white becomes butter, mint green, sand, beige, chocolate, all contrasting with the sweet lilac, mauve, lemon and black.

Detail is crucial across the collection, seamlessly transforming a garment of practicality into one of high-fashion luxury with photographic portraits of female artists and designers of the Bauhaus, shot by Florence Henry in the 1920s. Printed on canvas, they evoke the abstract emotion every piece in the collection emulates, sewn onto tailored jackets, coats and knitwear. 

Silver necklaces with the word “mother” in script offer another familial link, and even the necks of coats have jewel buttons or shell fastenings—the smallest piece of emotion, tethered to the sharp styles.

Jill Sander stands at the intersection of technical quality and handmade craftsmanship, offering chic dry wool suits with straight, elongated jackets; cropped or narrow trousers, worn with pullovers to emphasize the strength and vulnerability of the collection rather than shirts; knee-length boots in black pastels or soft lilac; and fluid, oversized knitted shirts.

Standout pieces of the collection include uniform-inspired coats in Tuscan double-faced wool or waterproof cotton, lapel-less and with invisible buttons; a double-breasted coat in enlarged plaid, defining the aura of the confident man spanning the collection; soft, extremely refined graphic n=knitwear with contrast-tone intarsia; and bags with geometry and shine, unique in their silhouette and texture, adding domestic softness with plush nappa forms. 

View the full collection here.

Credits: Images courtesy of Jill Sander

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