Jonathan Anderson’s creativity never ceases to amaze as he returns to Milan Fashion Week with a new JW Anderson collection that not only takes us back a few decades but completely reimagines what fashion is — transcending what we’ve defined fashion to be in ways that have yet to be seen.

The fashion designer and creative director of LOEWE debuted JW Anderson’s fall/winter 2023 collection with a fresh start by both continuing the brand’s trend of incorporating everyday objects into their ready-to-wear pieces, in addition to some totally out-of-the-box surprises.

Models opened the show with little to no clothing, forcing a focus on the few unique pieces being worn — from fabric rolls to biker boots that mimicked the properties of a leather bag with extensive buckles and a zipper down the center. From the get-go, it was evident that this collection would be more stripped back with a focus on taking viewers back to the root of clothing, with an emphasis on the primeval, hence the fabric roll. 

From pillow-shaped clutches to t-shirts, the incorporation of everyday objects became quickly noticeable as models walked down the runway without pants, but instead with their legs hand-painted with tomatoes. 

Through the portrayal of fur coats, pillow-shaped shirts and bags, and leather boots, the collection embodied a certain softness that remained cohesive throughout the entire show. The embrace of pillows as models walked down the runway represents the intimacy and connection to oneself. Compared to previous collections that were far more full and chaotic, each look in this collection was much more straightforward in its delivery and messaging, not requiring too much probing. 

On the other hand, whilst JW Anderson’s previous menswear show in Milan exemplified similar themes including alluding to childhood and creating wearable objects, through the use of skateboards, barcode graphics, bicycle handles, and more, past collections urged the viewer to instigate a deeper analysis of the collection and think beyond the clothes presented. This collection proved to be quite simplistic, allowing the viewer to see each item exactly as it is, with no excessive frills.  

Adding a kick of playfulness to the mix, and perhaps the highlight of the show included the brand’s collaboration with Wellipets, the renowned British frog wellington boots famously worn by young Prince Harry and Prince William. A true blast from the past, Wellipet frog clogs debuted in multiple colors including yellow, blue, and green, and added a sense of nostalgic comfort and reassurance that is often associated with one’s childhood. This collaboration will be available for purchase in adult sizes for both men and women from April onwards. 

Between the Wellipets, frog clutch, animal-printed boxer shorts, and cozy jumpers, the collection proved to be rather humorous and homely. There was also a nice balance of sophistication shown through the long straight coats as well as a few variations of the classic suit. Some pieces also paid homage to previous collections dating back to 2013 and held a very particular-to-the-brand silhouette from the leather frayed shorts to the graphic tees to the brand’s classic bumper bag.From winter shearling leather jackets with a wavy structured silhouette to suit pants with bunny-eared shaped wire coming out of the pockets, JW Anderson has always been unique in its exploration of silhouette shapes and this collection proved to be no different.

JW Anderson prefaced the show with multiple Instagram posts that were posted shortly after all the account’s images were deleted for a complete re-do. From hand-painted tomatoes to a tub of vaseline to leather biker boots and Wellipets, we were given a glimpse into the collection beforehand. As the brand was after some sort of re-direction for the new year their Men’s show certainly started them off on the right foot.