Kenzo Gets Psychadelic for AW19

Kenzo Gets Psychadelic for AW19

Designer Humberto Leon took inspiration from his Chinese-Peruvian heritage to create a cross-cultural collection.

Designer Humberto Leon took inspiration from his Chinese-Peruvian heritage to create a cross-cultural collection.

Text: Zoe Elefterin

In an age where the world is at a crossroads between pushing to the future while also embracing immigrant roots, fashion has served as a perfect vessel to accept these ideas in stride and create beautiful and new cross-cultural histories. Kenzo, a brand known for their exploration of French and Japanese roots, is a perfect example of this approach. Their AW19 Collection is packed full of references of Chinese and Peruvian culture, particularly that of the Tusán, a group of people who immigrated from the Guangdong province to Peru, influences that directly derive from Kenzo designer Humberto Leon’s familial history.

The set was covered in murals by the late shaman artist, Pablo Amaringo, whose paintings are inspired by visions that he has while using the hallucinogenic medicinal drink, ayahuasca.

The collection began with more structured menswear which was comprised of ochres, beiges, and forest greens that felt more earthy and then introduced bright, color-blocked, vibrating magentas, yellows, and purples throughout. Structurally, designers Leon and Carol Lim analyzed “Alpine life”, where influences were taken from hiking and mountain gear that came to life in the form of chunky patterned knits, puffer jackets and waterproof fabrics, and colorful hiking boots.

For the women’s section, bouncy, faux fur was inlaid in belted jackets, fuzzy hats and shoes lined the runway and references to ancestral craft were evident in the“swirling polar fleece” that embodied the earthy, psychedelic spirit of the collection.

Credits: Images Courtesy of Kenzo

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