LC:M Day 3

LC:M Day 3

DON'T MISS ANY OF THE ACTION FROM LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN. GET THE SCOOP ON THE BEST SHOWS, TRENDS, AND MORE, BELOW

DON'T MISS ANY OF THE ACTION FROM LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN. GET THE SCOOP ON THE BEST SHOWS, TRENDS, AND MORE, BELOW

Text: Julian Antetomaso

J.W. ANDERSON

The weather report didn’t call for rain, but it did anyway. That’s London for you. However, inside the Yeomanry House, where J.W. Anderson presented his S/S ’16 menswear collection, it was blindingly bright and hot. Now, many shows are bright and hot (runway lights, crowded benches, and what have you), but in this instance, it helped to transport showgoers into Anderson’s intergalactic world. The designer combined flight and space references in his fluid trousers, cropped sweaters, and jackets, and he employed unexpected embellishments that ranged from ostrich plumes and safety pins, to a sterile, medical tool print and a pattern that seemed to resemble a crossword puzzle. The collection was honest, experimental, at times playful (there was a dog sweater in the mix), and a clear standout.

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

While Anderson was in the clouds, Sarah Burton took the new Alexander McQueen collection out to sea. There were obvious nautical references including navy and white stripes, but most interesting element here was the use of sailor tattoo-like graphics on captain’s coats. Burton’s S/S ’16 men had clearly been out to sea for some time, judging by their frayed suits and faded denim wares. The sailors were apparently in search of a Legendary Creature, a fact that became clear when the final looks, which featured head-to-toe sea monster prints, walked the runway. It seems these voyagers will live to tell the tale.

BELSTAFF

Appropriately, Belstaff’s S/S ’16 collection focused on land—specifically the desert. The lineup was a nod to the Desert Rats, a division of the British Army active during World War II. A troop of models (whose outfits were no doubt much more luxurious than the uniforms that inspired them) greeted guests as we walked into the presentation, and the collection itself made clever use of the motorcycle references for which Belstaff is so well known. Images of desert terrain appeared on jackets, creating a camouflage print of sorts, but my personal favorite piece was the camel suede cape. I wonder how that would be fare in battle?

BELSTAFF

BELSTAFF

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN  PHOTOGRAPHY PORTIA HUNT

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN  PHOTOGRAPHY PORTIA HUNT

J.W. ANDERSON

J.W. ANDERSON

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