Maisie Wilen has always been a digital-first designer. Coming hot off the brand’s FW22 collection, which featured digitally rendered models, it was difficult to imagine how the designer could further embrace technological advancement. Still, the brand seems to reach new heights with its NYFW SS23 collection, presenting a line meant to be altered with CGI and special effects. These looks blur the definition of a final product, offering both garments reflecting technology and begetting further technological editing. The line is eye-catching, bold, and places Maisie Wilen at the frontlines of fashion technology.

Wilen’s line can be divided into two sections: the looks that reflect technology, and the looks that ask for more technological manipulation. Though the latter of these categories provide some of the most innovative, jaw-dropping garments to Wilen’s name, it’s likely the former which is the most practical and wearable. 

These technology-inspired outfits follow Wilen’s theme of introducing highly intricate patterns and structuring into conventional pieces. The collection is rife with prints reflecting such far-out concepts as space, CGI, and film editing, all portrayed on the simplest of pants and vests. These looks present a visual feast, blurring the medium and introducing editing techniques into a physicalized garment. They are certainly standout pieces, but also standard enough in their structure that they could be worn by the everyday fashion lover. 

On the flip side, the collection also includes a variety of garments that are meant to be modified, edited and manipulated. These range from long skirts to the collection’s highlight, a full-length gown, all printed with motion-capture symbols. These looks ask us to consider when a piece of art is ‘complete.’ Wilen’s motion-capture garments are certainly not incomplete, for they stand alone as beautifully fitted pieces, but also provide so much more possibility. Is it done when it hits the runway, or when it’s virtually modified by your everyday tech aficionado? The answer may just be both. 

The SS23 collection marks several firsts for Wilen. It is Wilen’s first attempt at menswear, interspersing new men’s looks amidst her classic womenswear. This is only a shallow step, though, maintaining a unisex look and providing all menswear in female sizing as well. The bigger first for Wilen is her introduction of technical editing into the garments themselves. By now we’ve seen many designers embracing what technology can add to fashion, bringing their looks into the metaverse or incorporating digital showcases. Wilen may be the first designer to ask what fashion can do for technology. That question is revolutionary.