Margiela SS19 Was a Full Goth Fantasy

Margiela SS19 Was a Full Goth Fantasy

For his first menswear collection at the luxury house, designer John Galliano returned to his dark roots.

For his first menswear collection at the luxury house, designer John Galliano returned to his dark roots.

Text: SAMUEL ANDERSON

For his inaugural Margiela Artisanal menswear collection for Maison Margiela, creative director John Galliano’s dark and twisted fantasy was on full, infernal display. The presentation, which transformed the Margiela atelier in Paris into an haute couture hell-scape, sent up a flare to the fashion community that Galliano as transgressor is back, and a new reign at the avant-garde fashion house has officially begun.

Adorned with blood-red gelatin tapestries, the runway featured a mix of religious imagery and nods to the prince of darkness himself, from hoofed boots to the corona of black beads that closed the show. Granted, it wasn’t all dark-sided; while a gothic black-and-red motif bookended the collection, it also contained pops of cheer and color, from silky floral kimonos to high-waisted baby-blue vinyl pants.

Coinciding with the release of Margiela’s new podcast titled “The Memory of… With John Galliano,” in which the designer reflects on his craft, the show seemed to pay home to Galliano’s rule-breaking playbook; from the modified rosary (paired with a see-through poncho and white speedo, no less) to the gender-bending corseting, the show included several echoes of the designer’s iconic papal look from the Dior AW 2000 collection, which he recreated for Rihanna’s Met Ball look earlier this year.

Credits: Photos: Courtesy of Margiela

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