Pitti Uomo Brings Fresh Street-Style to Florence

Pitti Uomo Brings Fresh Street-Style to Florence

Starting today, the trade show brings 1,000 boundary-pushing brands to the cradle of menswear.

Starting today, the trade show brings 1,000 boundary-pushing brands to the cradle of menswear.

Text: SAMUEL ANDERSON

Today, the sprawling menswear trade show Pitti Uomo, which translates simply to “Pitti Man,” officially opens in Florence, Italy. The oldest of its kind, the biannual trade show, now in its 94th iteration, is known for showcasing gentlemanly Italian brands and attracting a street-style scene straight out of a Patricia Highsmith novel (think Talented Mr. Ripley minus the bloodshed). And while Florence, birthplace of brands like Ferragamo, Cavalli, and Pucci, has long been the cradle of Italian men's style, Pitti has since broken that mold as menswear’s biggest incubator, part-trade show, part-consumer-facing pageant rivaling men’s fashion week.

Of the 1000-plus brands in attendance this year, many arrive by way of international and up-and-coming fashion scenes. Case in point: Pitti’s official “guest nation” of Georgia, which earlier this year emerged as the fashion calendar’s coolest newcomer with Tblisi Fashion Week, presented by Mercedez-Benz. A part of its ongoing initiative for economic development, the Eastern European nation will be hosting a crop of directional homegrown brands like Gola Damian and Situationist

Overlapping with Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Pitti Uomo promises to pull focus with exclusive runway shows from London-based Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli, which will unveil its first men’s collection by Paul Surridge, who was appointed creative director last year.

And while its roots are in classical European tailoring, the fair has made way for more relaxed fits, embracing menswear’s prevailing streetwear trend. Highlights will include presentation of Commes Des Garçons alum Fumito Ganryu’s new independent line emphasizing modern casual-wear, and the second chapter of the Moncler Genius Project kicked off earlier this year by streetwear godfather Hiroshi Fujiwara.     

Perhaps best embodying Pitti’s evolution as an international menswear spectacle is an exhibit blending streetwear mania and sports fanaticism. The aptly named “Fanatic Feelings,” showcasing exclusive soccer-inspired capsule collections by Vivienne Westwood, Delpozo, and Y/Project for Yoox as well as illustrations of soccer players by Karl Lagerfeld, will examine the impact of football culture on menswear.

Below, see inside Pitti Uomo's kick off events.

P.O.P. Pitti Optical Power installation at Pitti Uomo (photo: courtesy of Pitti Uomo)
Credits: Images courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo

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