Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented Clarity, the Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 collection, at Fondazione Prada’s Deposito in Milan, on a transparent runway floor lit with fluorescent panels from below. The collection’s foundation was denim, specifically jeans, jean jackets, and the Canadian tuxedo. Interesting enough, neither designer has had a close relationship to the material. For instance, Miuccia Prada has said she has never worn jeans and probably never will, while Raf Simons has favored wool trousers for roughly 20 years.

However, denim was chosen precisely because it seemed so ordinary. As one of the most universal garments in modern dress, jeans offered both designers the opportunity to rethink a very familiar material. The fabric’s history, which stretches from sailors and laborers to contemporary wardrobes, made it an ideal starting point. Simons described the process as garments being “rematerialized, rescaled, or their use reversed.” Jean jackets became fitted shirts, suits echoed the structure of the Canadian tuxedo, and denim itself appeared in cream, pale pink, and acid green rather than indigo. Similarly, slim, cropped trousers and translucent interpretations of jeans and jackets pushed everyday staples into more experimental territory.

For accessories, one standout piece was an oversized buckled belt fitted with a signature Prada pouch, functioning almost as a hybrid belt bag. Leather appeared across sharply tailored blazers, sleeveless vests, and trousers, while translucent fabrics introduced a softer dimension, appearing on both tops and bottoms.

The collection was not without Prada’s usual subversions. Retro curtain patterns appeared on snug sweater vests and skinny jeans, alongside offbeat colors such as anise green and Pepto-Bismol pink, as well as asymmetrical eyewear with a distinctly futuristic quality. The closing looks of Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 played with extreme proportions and high-contrast color blocking. Including an oversized black blazer layered over a tan knit vest paired with fuchsia trousers and a final look rendered entirely in canary yellow denim.

Courtesy of Prada