See Raf Simons's Lush SS19 Showcase

See Raf Simons's Lush SS19 Showcase

The menswear whisperer's Spring/Summer collection showed off his softer side

The menswear whisperer's Spring/Summer collection showed off his softer side

Text: SAMUEL ANDERSON

Between running point at megabrand Calvin Klein and keeping up his beloved, long-running eponymous label, Raf Simons has demonstrated a herculean ability to be both designer and businessman. But for all his superhuman strength, Simons proved last night that he hasn’t lost an ounce of idiosyncrasy. The Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2019 presentation, held in a suburban Paris warehouse, reflected Simons’s light touch as a tailor, emphasizing loosely layered loungewear and a couture-meets-comfort ideology.

Which is not to say the clothes lacked structure. The crisp, broad-shouldered trenches and asymmetrical sports jackets were a return to form for Simons as the industry’s foremost outerwear whisperer. But the collection, replete with high-gloss satin coats, mod tank tops made of plasticky chainmail, and slouchy garment bag-like men's purses, effortlessly blended Simons’s talents as a tailor with a softer aesthetic than we’ve grown accustomed to seeing in the menswear landscape.

Pivoting from the Americana of the western menswear trend—which Simons himself arguably ushered in last year—the collection’s references skewed French, from its Phantom of the Opera cameos to the turtlenecks scattered throughout. Still, Simons didn’t disappoint when it came to feeding the hype-hungry menswear beast; the collection also served to debut a new Adidas shoe collaboration—a silver-soled edition of the iconic Ozweego shoe.

Watch the complete presentation below.

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