'Real Men' Per Willy Chavarria Fall/Winter 2021

'Real Men' Per Willy Chavarria Fall/Winter 2021

'Real Men' Per Willy Chavarria Fall/Winter 2021

Reshaping familiar garments

Reshaping familiar garments

Text: Ayesha Le Breton

From rotund pants and billowing hems to cloak jackets and wide shoulders, the New York-based fashion designer reveals unlikely and striking shapes with his latest collection. We've all been waiting for the unexpected to sweep us off our feet this digital fashion week, and Chavarria might just be your match made in heaven. Entitled 'Real men,' this collection is just the right amount of thrilling needed, while we wade through the winter's tendency to compromise style for comfort and warmth.

Distinct silhouettes punctuate this assortment of looks and are unveiled in a vulnerable yet slightly comical series of interviews with male models. The camera work is up and close and personal, representative of the invasive questions being asked.  Then shifting to snow-covered Brooklyn, set to piano music and following a few of the models wearing his latest designs through the deserted streets.

We've been given a smorgasbord of designer sweatpants and loungewear, but Chavarria innovates a new shape to revitalize one's body and one's life–retail therapy is a real thing. Bowed and bulbous, this collection is a gesture towards the strength and fluidity needed to endure the current reality.

Bold but tender tailoring elevates the masculinity synonymous to Chavarria's signature sensibilities and projects confidence. There's a softness to the hulking trousers, in deep blacks and piercing blues reflective of the city's skyscrapers, and burnt orange sunsets that invites a darling demeanor.

Political matters have often centered his creations, be it his previous baggy knitwear staples with an upside-down start-spangled banner, or tees printed with inverted renditions of the world's America. For SS20 he focused on 'the fight for love' during political darkness, but this season his commentary plays along with a little more subtlety. Made out of recycled fibers, this line-up is just as impactful, as Chavarria continues his relationship with Peruvian manufacturing, using wool, organic and recycled cotton, alongside durable materials made from sea waste.

It's been hopeful seeing more and more emerging brands opt for social relevance rather than the historically exclusionary ethos of the industry.

Credits: Images and video courtesy of Vogue Runway and Willy Chavarria.

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