THE NEW NEW YORK

The American menswear landscape has long been ruled by tradition and big corporations. This season, disorder emerges and a new vision catches light. As NYFW comes to a close, V spoke four designers about this shift and how their brands approach menswear.

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  • MAKEUP VIRGINIA YOUNG (STATEMENT ARTISTS), HAIR SHINGO SHIBATA (THE WALL GROUP, DIGITAL TECHNICIAN ANTHONY MILLER, LIGHTING DIRECTOR RICARDO FERNANDES, PHOTO ASSISTANT ERIC BOUTHILLER, HAIR ASSISTANT KAZU, LOCATION HOOK STUDIOS.

KIRK MILLER LINDER
“I think [urban life in] American is about to a non-conformist, effortless style; a pair of great jeans, and an old tea with sneakers or boots…that’s NYC to me. Let it get worn out, ripped, and dirty. The swagger and individualism of a Hollywood protagonist has infiltrated our culture’s views on the self, persona, and attitude.”

(LEFT TO RIGHT) KALIB BESHER (NEXT), KIRK MILLAR, DANE BELL (FUSION), NOAH DURAN (NEXT), PETER MEYER (IMG), MATHEW MCCABE (NEXT)

NEIL GROTZINGER NIHL
“I’m happy that I’m able to disrupt the system and throw challenges into the mix, but I think there’s still a lot more potential for American menswear to come out of its shell. My brand revolves around the concept of subverting masculine stereotypes into objects of queer empowerment.”

(LEFT TO RIGHT) SY LUCAS, JOE APPOLONIO, MYLEAN READER, NIC VILLAROSA, ISAAC COLE POWELL (NEW PANDEMICS), NEIL GROTZINGER

KOZABURO AKASAKA KOZABURO
“[Kozaburo as a brand is] an expression of a belief-bridging and breaking the boundaries of East and West in culture and spirituality through my personal narrative. The Kozaburo man is a bare man who walks in the desert with a coyote.”

(LEFT TO RIGHT) TOMO WADACHI, JONATHAN RICHETTS, KOZABURO AKASAKA, JACOPO OLMO (NEW YORK MANAGEMENT), SIVAJRA AI LIN

RAUL SOLIS LRS
“I’m targeting a man who is interested in current culture and self-expression. Someone who is creative, rebellious and interested in design. A self-expressive individual who is willing to push norms. Someone dressing with no age, no gender, body type or cultural uniforms [in mind].”

(LEFT TO RIGHT) ALEXANDRA ALBRIGHT, JOHN ANTHONY LEONE, FRANCO SCHICKE, CAMERON LEE PHAN (NEW PANDEMICS), RAUL SOLIS, MATTHEW SOSNOWSKI (TOMORROW IS ANOTHER DAY)
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