In a balance of dark, oversized romanticism and melded, modernized heritages, 2021’s menswear collections approached the Fall/Winter season without pause, capturing us in cinematic narratives walking every runway. It was a pivot for fashion, as creative directors continue to tap the global clime with each season. Just as we are, fashion too is emerging from isolation, keeping pace with the zeitgeist in its own abstract, delphic tailorings and its leading mise-en-scènes, adding levity to an industry long lived in limbo. Reliably, the gloss of the fashion’s golden promise was never far off: offering a moment of respite in a reality seeming so far from the dreams and wonders of the catwalk.

Browse Vman’s Top 10 Fall Menswear Collections, where Fashion Director Gro Curtis breaks down the men’s fashion scene below:

BALENCIAGA

Even though designer Demna Gvasalia showcased his Fall 2021. menswear collection already in December one can not summarize this coming season without his Balenciaga collection. He is pushing his idea of styling boundaries more than ever. In Demna’s world everything is perfectly intertwined. Destroyed 90’s post-Soviet era sweaters with ripped jeans that are showcasing proper medieval armor. There are also NASA bomber jackets, perfectly oversized black suits and many more ideas that will for sure push your envelope. Whatever you think about it, the thing about Demna is that he always has both a strong and unique point of view. Right now this is what we need.

DIOR MEN

There is always a touch of British romantic eccentricity in brilliant collections Kim Jones is serving us season after season. His guys live in their own world surrounded by beauty, art, and a healthy dose of melancholy. What is beautiful about Jones is the fact that he is able to inject haute couture elements directly from Monsieur Dior archives into his menswear. For the fall-winter season, he decided to collaborate with Scottish-born painter Peter Doig. The result is poetic and magical but in a very practical sense because clothes look and move in such a comfortable, nonchalant way. Elements from military uniforms are perfectly blended with soft coats and jackets. Kim is definitely redefining modern menswear and that deserves loud ovations.

ETRO

Italian family house Etro is a specific brand with rich heritage and even richer prints. Creative director of menswear line, Kean Etro, is successfully modernizing vintage prints, a motif that is unfamiliar to Gen Z obsessed with beige hoodies and over the top sneakers. Everything about the new collection looked desirable. It felt like a young guy was playing with his father’s and grandfather’s closet. Even though this play can end up looking gimmicky this wasn’t the case. Actually, there is something so fresh and appealing about the past and especially the mix of most unexpected colors. From shades of pale mint to purples, electric yellows, and of course maroon shades that are so legendary for the house. The whole collection may have looked vintage but it was also vibrant and playful. You almost want to be that guy even though your closet is probably packed with hoodies.

FENDI

Fendi stands for Roman, bourgeois luxury and Silvia Fendi knows she owns that world. First of all the power of Fendi lies in the amazing selection of the most expensive fabrics that Silvia is able to twist around and present them in almost street style signature. In this case scenario we are talking about very upscale street style. There is so much allure in those knitted overalls and laser-cut leather pieces. Fendi represents cozy luxury. Coats and jackets that can serve you even as pillows and blankets. Piece de resistance are those amazing puffer coats inspired with silky loungewear so typical for let’s say Italian hedonist while he is making his first espresso at 7AM.

GmbH

Benjamin Husbey and Serhat Isik created a cult following around their label. GmbH is not a cup of tea intended for everyone but that is what makes their vision stand out. In one of their strongest showings since they started working together, Husbey and Isik served us with a subversive, sci-fi inspired collection where the most outstanding looks where the ones with open shoulders. Remember the iconic Ruby Rhod character played by Chris Tucker in The Fifth Element? If Ruby was fan of subtle but powerful black – this would be his perfect closet. These specific shoulder cuts don’t look feminine at all. Au contraire, they look confidently masculine and sexy. This designer duo struck a peculiar code with the latest collection.

LOEWE

The mind of Jonathan Anderson is like a complex puzzle where nothing and everything has sense. No wonder Loewe’s menswear collections are truly groundbreaking moment for all of us who live and breathe fashion. Anderson is a hero of extremes so for example when he takes an idea of leather trousers you know you will get something odd but terribly attractive. Talking about leather also don’t forget that is the quintessential material of Spanish house Jonathan leads. Forte of Anderson’s creative process is taking things that are basic and then recreating them in a completely new form.

LOUIS VUITTON

Even though Virgil Abloh has played with the power of tailoring since his first collection for Louis Vuitton it seems like he finally mastered the technique. There is something powerful and almost iconoclastic in his oversized coats, trench coats and pleated skirts of brilliant cut. The strongest looks in the collections are the simplest ones. For example, the look of minimalistic vs. futuristic cowboy in skirt and sneakers is one of my personal favorites of the whole season. In this “less is more” statement Abloh is delivering a message that goes beyond fashion. A blend of connotations and ideas coming from these very simple but outrageously loud looks shows that we can still expect great things from Abloh.

PRADA

First menswear outing of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was a success. But did you expect anything less? We witnessed very often fashion marriages that were a good idea on the paper but in reality all we needed to see was an urgent divorce. I doubt this will happen with the two most influential designers of their generations. It’s almost shocking who synchronized Prada and Simons are. Their different ideas perfectly compliment each other. Take for example Simons’ long-term obsession with oversized bomber jackets. In this case, core DNA of Simons got Prada treatment just like the core DNA of Prada legendary prints received Simons treatment. There is no need for them to do something completely unexpected because all ingredients are there and when mixed together they work perfectly.

RICK OWENS

Deserts need the rain just like menswear needs Rick Owens. Rick doesn’t just provide drama we need the drama about fashion. He has the power of gender-bending every piece he touches. In that sense, Owens speaks his own language and we are here just so we can finally, one day learn it. Even though some tend to call his vision apocalyptic it’s anything but that. Clothes designed by Owens are pieces to be worn by optimistic fighters who truly do believe in a better world. To be a good fighter you also have to lead a life without compromises. Rick Owens gives us the attitude of contemporary warriors who are ready to risk everything for what they believe in. Dressed in a cropped bomber jacket and perfect platform high boots.