Founded as a textile company in 1910, ZEGNA has come a long way since its humble beginnings in North Italy. One of the most influential luxury menswear brands of today, ZEGNA has made a well-respected name for itself through fine craftsmanship and historical celebration. And the brand’s Fall/Winter 2023/2024 collection is no exception. Named “THE OASI OF CASHMERE,” ZEGNA’s latest collection asserts that “Matter Matters.”

Guests who attended the fashion show on January 16, 2023 experienced a critical phase in the production of Oasi Cashmere fabrics. As fibers floated around in an air chamber, on-lookers witnessed the live precipitation- and key process- in creating the collection’s fine fabric. The spectacle of this usually unseen process allowed for its own off-the-runway show. 

In addition to this, ZEGNA’s belief that innovation in clothes making is just as, if not more, essential than the clothes themselves is what makes this collection stand out against the crowd. Named after the historic home of ZEGNA- Oasi Zegna in Piedmont, Italy- the renowned label pays homage to its roots while simultaneously pushing the envelope for menswear in 2023 and beyond. 

Artistic director Alessandro Sartori utilizes Oasi Cashmere to both honor Italian craftsmanship and stay true to the brand’s modern minimalist identity. Working with the best directly owned mills — including Bonotto, Dondi, Filati Biagioli Modesto, Lanificio Zegna and Tessitura Ubertino — ZEGNA commits to certifying its fibers as fully traceable by 2024. “At ZEGNA, I have the unprecedented opportunity to create fabrics from weaving through to finishing, challenging our manufacturers, pushing them to explore uncharted waters,” ZEGNA tells V. “This allows me to mound our silhouettes right from the matter, making sure that our commitment to innovation and excellence is rooted in every step of the process. The result is an all-encompassing language that is truly progressive.”

How the clothes drape on the body is just as important as texture throughout the collection. Leisure and labor go hand in hand, mixing traditional workwear elements with relaxed cuts. Unexpectedly bespeckled throughout the collection are vibrant hues- “serene greys meet aurora yellow, while foliage Brown is dashed with bacca red and Portofino Blue.” Punctuating the looks are structured handbags, including the new Vetta Triple Stitch.

With ZEGNA, less is more. The collection’s soft cuts, generally neutral colorways, and diverse textures allows it to transcend time. Though trousers could be seen moving with the body and bags held by the hip, outerwear stole the show at ZEGNA. Featuring a manifold array of blazers, bomber jackets, chunky knits, Anoraks, trench coats, and more- ZEGNA is designed both for whisking down the runway and strolling through the Italian countryside.