Opening just outside of Milan, models walked the site of a mill founded in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna. Quickly grabbing the attention of the audience is the view of forested mountains called Oasi Zegna, which has been part of Zegna’s reforestation project since his ownership of the mill. As a brand that values sustainability, Zegna has planted 500,000 trees to mitigate climate change and protect indigenous species since 1930. 

The collection had a feeling of lightless to it- from the color palette to the materials, to the flags swaying in the wind along the runway. Engineered knitwear, silk, meshes, wools, and paper linen were used to loose unstructured shapes, barely clinging to the body.  There was a focus on terry for undershirts as well as a transparent, weightless mesh which results in a fluid, effortless silhouette throughout the collection. 

Known for his unusual approach to tailoring, Zegna included layered jackets, kimonos trenches, and blazers without collars or buttons for easy movement.

“ My work stems from a question: what’s next for tailoring? And for the needs of the lives of today?” Zegna says, “The idea is to use our craftmanship as a progressive tool, keeping the finesse, the attention to detail, the respect of materials while experimenting with shapes that are light and materials, solutions and finishes that give these shapes a new technicality, to mostly building up a new silhouette where effortless and innovation create a new style for men.” 

All are presented in a distinct earthy color palette accented with notes of powder white, buttercup, dusty rose, honey, vicuña, mocha, hickory, charcoal, sulfur, and black. The palette in itself complements the equally breathtaking setting of Oasi Zegna. 

Watch the full show below: