In a world filled with so much uncertainty, change, deconstruction, and vulnerability were the main themes present in Yohji Yamamoto’s latest collection. In place of a traditional show the designer gave us a video presentation and accompanying lookbook. Shot by Takay The video sees male models walk the runway in Yohji’s latest designs. Every so often their images froze and were instespruts with blurred shots, close-ups and highlights of key design details. In the background you can hear Yohji speaking and playing a harmonica. 

The collection itself was moody and poetic, filled with dark tones. A mix of fabrics saw denim, wools, linens, and patchwork paired with graphic tees and suiting. Black fabrics featured throughout (a color that is favoured by the designer) but a surprise came from a pop of red with a military inspired, mandiarian-collar, coat. The clothes looked lived-in, and well-worn, distressed, dishevelled, and falling apart at the seams. Fly fronts and waistcoats were fastened with rope and leather string. A detail that was used to hold-up baggy pants. The tailoring was conceptual but relaxed, shoulders were unbuttoned or folded away from the seam, which at first glance looked like they had been ripped, or torn. They are clothes for the bohemian vagabond, they conjure up images of George Orwell’s 1933 memoire: Down and Out in Paris and London, and hard-up characters that were played by Charlie Chaplin. 

Yamamoto also explored layering and texture, jackets of various lengths were shown embroidered with the words, “Handle with Care ” and “Fragile”, a message which was echoed by Yohji himself. At the end of the video the designer appeared from a spotlight wearing a jacket with the word Fragile embroidered across his back.

Take a look at the Yohji Yamamoto SS21 lookbook below.